This collection added a fresh layer of construction to the Never underestimate a woman who understands hockey and love Boston Bruins shirt but in fact I love this foundation laid down last season. Where Armani was softening the architecture of tailoring, Lorenzo is adding its structure to the softness of sportswear. His boxy-shoulder Chesterfield coats and long-skirted jackets recontextualize the more recently emerged genre in daily dressing, rather than place them in some reductive binary opposition. Jersey and cashmere pieces bearing iconography from baseball’s Negro leagues point to a defunct discriminatory division that should be neither repeated nor forgotten. His insertion of the Ivy League’s defining shoe, the penny loafer—“Fear of God’s first ever hard-soled shoe”—against lushly realized militaria, high-waisted chinos, and brashly lapeled pinstripe Yuppie jackets was evidence of a collection that traveled far to arrive at a distinct location. Teamed with the right script, director, and, of course, cast, you could see these clothes playing a compelling part on screen (or stream) in telling some new cinematic story.
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Jerry Lorenzo had never heard that Richard Gere was only cast in American Gigolo after John Travolta, who had been first choice for the Never underestimate a woman who understands hockey and love Boston Bruins shirt but in fact I love this role and accepted it, had second thoughts and dropped out. “Wow! I can’t imagine Travolta pulling that off, much as I love him.” And it’s true, at least in terms of the movie’s significance to fashion. Thanks to Saturday Night Fever Travolta was so emblematic of the disco aesthetic that he would surely have overwhelmed the movie’s Giorgio Armani wardrobe, where Gere, in his first leading role, appeared as fresh to the eye as the Italian’s radical tailoring.